View from Neudorf's vineyard in the Moutere Hills

Nelson wines have traditionally maintained a low profile. Wine production is small while wineries are mostly boutique and all family-owned. The region boasts one winemaking hero. Neudorf is to Nelson what Chateau d’Yquem is to Sauternes – way out in front of the field. Greenhough has always been a distant second although the gap appears to be closing a little.

In recent years the region has experienced a minor revolution with a number of new wineries, and one or two existing players, beginning to demonstrate that they may one day challenge the leader. Blackenbrook, Brightwater, Himmelsfeld, Renato, Rimu Grove, Seifried, Waimea and Woollaston are all showing flashes of brilliance. Put those flashes together and Nelson’s potential as a fine wine region is clearly evident.

I recently attended a tasting in Auckland with some of Nelson’s more serious producers. Neudorf and Greenhough were notably absent – perhaps you don’t have to try quite as hard when you’re on top. I heard a rumour that Neudorf originally planned to attend but withdrew when they heard that Martinborough producers were staging a similar event on the same day. That’s a pity. It takes a hero to pull the crowds, although there did seem to be plenty of key wine trade people sipping Nelson wine and engaging in earnest discussion with the makers.

I had previously tasted most of the wines on offer (see my wine notes on this website) but made a few happy discoveries, including a new winery, Redoubt Hill, that has got off to a flying start. They boast Nelson’s steepest vineyard of modest (5-6 hectares) dimension. It is, according to owner Daniel Jackson, the only vineyard in New Zealand with separation point granite soils. I’m not entirely sure what that means but their first release 2008 Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris merited scores of 86 and 85 respectively while their 08 Riesling narrowly missed silver medal status with a score of 84.

Other standout wines included Waimea 2008 Gewurztraminer $25 (wonderfully pure Turkish delight flavours), Kahurangi 2007 Mt Arthur Riesling $20.50 (dry with strong lime and mineral flavours, great acidity and an ethereal texture) and Seifried’s celebrated 2008 Pinot Gris $22 (Off/dry wine with a soft texture and masses of tropical fruit and spice flavours – very impressive).

This entry was posted on Saturday, October 18th, 2008 at 10:35 am and is filed under Nelson. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.