Bob Campbell is one of only 264 Masters of Wine in the world. An international wine judge, Bob judges wine professionally in ten countries and contributes regularly to publications around the world. His specialty is New Zealand wine which he reviews from an international perspective.
Does Central Otago Pinot Noir age well?
They say it will age ... but will it?
A chance remark resulted in an extensive tasting of 41 examples of Central Otago Pinot Noir from 2003 or earlier. The objective of the tasting … to determine whether we should drink Central Otago Pinot Noir now or later.
When the question of ageworthiness was raised, Ruenell Rapoza, marketing and events co-ordinator of Central Otago Pinot Noir Ltd (COPL), swung into action. Member wineries were contacted and invited to send Pinot Noir from 2003 or earlier to me for a tasting that might determine just how well these wines age.
Wineries that sent samples were: Akarua, Amisfield, Carrick, Chard Farm, Desert Heart, Felton Road, Mount Edward, Mt Difficulty, Olssens, Peregrine, Pisa Range Estate, Quartz Reef, Rippon and Two Paddocks. 13 wineries sounds like a good turnout although my database reveals a further 20 wineries made wine from 2003 or before. They may not have had stocks to share or perhaps they were not members of COPL (two no longer exist).
Why is ageability an issue? Central Otago Pinot Noir is often so drop-dead delicious when it’s released why not just drink it? Ageing is an issue because it ADDS VALUE. Central Otago is already a probationary member of the Pinot Noir Big Boys Club. To gain full membership it must demonstrate that its wines improve with age. Not just hang-on-in-there with age, but improve.
Check out the president of the Pinot Noir Big Boys Club – Burgundy. Grand Cru burgundy of stature is parctically undrinkable when first released. It’s expected to be cellared for at least 10-15 years by when it will be mellow and (with luck) very complex. Would anyone shell out $1000 for a bottle of La Tache if it was best enjoyed two years after vintage? Even Premier Cru burgundy undergoes a metamorphosis from ugly egg to beautiful butterfly. Village burgundy is best enjoyed within a few years of release – but most of it cowers well under the $50 price point.
The tasting was complicated by vintage variation, a transition to screwcaps in 2001 or 2002 and, I guess, vine age plus the expected evolution in vineyard and winery that tends to create a lumpy playing field. Cutting to the chase, here are my conclusions from the tasting:
- 2002 was such a good vintage generally that it frequently emerged as the best wine in a single winery vertical. In general terms Pinot from the 2002 vintage are ageing well depite predictions that they would become over-blown and be short-lived.
- 14 out of the 41 wines were sealed with a cork. None were corked although two wines had a noticable woody cork flavour that did them no good. The two oldest wines in the tasting, both from 1999 and under cork, looked very good. I believe that both had improved significantly since they were released.
- Many wines that had seductive fruit flavours and were deliciously drinkable on release (Akarua 2002 is an example) still looked good although they hadn’t gained much benefit from bottle age.
- Felton Road “Block” wines that are (in my opinion) often over-shaddowed by the winery’s regular label upon first release seem to have outstripped the less expensive wine with bottle age. They showed very good bottle development. Conversely, I regard the recently tasted Felton Road 2007 Block 5 Pinot Noir as the best New Zealand Pinot Noir I have ever tasted. Will it get even better. You bet!
Finally … not all Central Otago Pinots are equal. Some deliciously fruity wines will never be much more than that – deliciously fruity and seem destined to decline in quality (quality = fruit) with bottle age. Others did seem to improve markedly with bottle age (Felton Block 3 & 5 are examples). I wonder whether the increasing use of stems during fermentation, in vintages that allow it, will add an extra dimension of complexity? More work needs to be done and winemakers who wish to build ageing potential into their wines need to keep a close eye on those who are already able to build wines with a future.
Tasting notes, with scores, are on my website database.
November 13th, 2008 at 5:47 am
Hello Bob,
I have lived in the US and worked at the University of California in Davis (can google my name for my research here) for the last 29 years. I am originally from Tuatapere and have family in Alexandra, so often visit when I am home and buy (or am gifted:) many Otago Pinot Noirs. I just drank a 1999 Reserve Gibston Vally Pinot (a bottle from the same vintage that won the awards in London) and it was spectacular. I also have many bottles of 2002 vintage (Gibbston Valley, Lowburn Ferry, Peregrine, Syren, Akarua, Carrick, Olssens, Felton Road etc), and several from 1999, 2000, 2001. Of course I have many more recent vintages also. Because I live right next to the Napa Valley here in California my collection grows faster than I drink it and since I often drink a local wine my “special” collection of Otago Pinot Noirs survives since I only share a bottle with very special friends.
Is there anything I can do to help you in your quest to determine the aging proprties of our Otago Pinot Noir wines?
Kind regards
Coralie Munro
November 13th, 2008 at 8:20 am
Coralie, I’d appreciate any feedback on the ageworthyness, or otherwise, of specific wines. Wines from before 2000 are pretty thin on the ground beause it was early days in Central Otago’s short produciton history. Michael Cooper joined me in the tasting and agreed with my synopsis.
Cheers,
BOB
March 22nd, 2009 at 8:22 am
Bob
We shared some 2003 Bannock Brae Estate Barrel Select with at special dinner for 18 not long ago and everyone was delighted with the wine.
While still young by your criteria – my sense is this wine has a few more years to be enjoyed.
Ron McFarland
June 9th, 2009 at 11:03 am
I am a big fan of CO Pinot and just oppened some 2003 Valli after it spent about 4 years in my non-temperature-controlled cellar (i.e. floor of basement). While far too early to tell if it really is built for aging, I can say that it was clearly not in decline. Ripe, full fruit was beginning to round and mature, but still very vibrant. Secondary flavor profiles were beginning to develop. I’d say it was easilty ready for another few years on the cellar floor (and more in a propper cellar).
Cheers,
EW
October 17th, 2009 at 2:05 pm
Dear Bob: I’ve been a Burgundy enthusiast since the seventies and was a partner in a little winery in Petaluma, CA, La Crema Viñera. Our ‘79 and ‘80 Winery Lake Vineyard Pinot Noirs are still tasting quite good, in my humble opinion. Alas, we died of terminal cash flow back in the day. My Godson and his new bride will be spending three weeks in New Zealand in December and I wonder if you can recommend a good tour or two where they can visit some of the better Central Otago Pinot Noir producers. Any suggestions will be appreciated. By the way, I have a 2005 Amsfield Pinot and wonder how it’s doing? Thanks for your time, Rich Gibbons.
October 19th, 2009 at 7:34 am
Richard,
I tasted the 2005 Amisfield quite recently. There’s no rush to drink it but I wonder how much better it will get as it’s very good right now. I’d say enjoy it now or over the next 4-5 years. I’m afraid I don’t know much about Central Otago wineey’ry tour organisations but if they’re going to do their own tour herre are my favourite winery visits:
Amisfiled
Peregrine
Gibbston Valley
FElton Road
Mt Difficulty
Aurum
Rippon
Two Paddocks
Cheers,
BOB
November 30th, 2009 at 6:15 am
Generally I do not post on blogs, but I would like to say that this post really forced me to do so. Really nice post!
March 31st, 2010 at 1:27 pm
Hi Bob,
I am not sure whether you attend the Pinot Noir 2010. If you did, I would like to hear a bit more about the aged Pinot Noir case study across the whole country.
March 31st, 2010 at 2:24 pm
Yes, I did attend the event and was a speaker on the panel – “NZ Pinot Noir – Seven years on”. We tasted a number of wines from the 2003 vintage over all the main regions in an attempt to guage just how well NZ Pinot ages. I’m afraid it was fairly inconclusive. I gained the impression that anyone who thought NZ Pinot aged well felt that the tasting proved it while those who didn’t think it aged well (including Neal Martin from The Wine Advocate) also felt the tasting reinforced their case. It would take a much larger tasting covering many vintages to demonstrate the ageworthiness, or otherwise, of NZ Pinot Noir. I think the wines are to some extent hampered by their accessibility when young. Youthful drinkability implies a lack of ageing potential. It’s an important issue that may need another decade before we can clearly identify the styles, regional or winemaker, that improve in time.
April 5th, 2010 at 5:22 pm
Hi Bob
I have a 2003 Quartz Reef Pinot Noir, which was purchased in 2006. I am not a big Pinot drinker (I’m a Sauv Blanc gal….),however I’m thinking of trading it for a favour, or even giving it as a gift. But – I’d hate to poison somebody! Your thoughts please.
Thanks
Kate
April 6th, 2010 at 8:44 am
Kate,
2003 was a good and long-lived vintage. I’ve tried a few recently (not Quartz Reef) and am impressed with the way they’ve developed. Quartz Reef is certainly one of Central Otago’s better producers. I believe the wine is sealed with a screwcap? If it is and has been stored reasonably well I’d say the wine is likely to be very good indeed. If it’s got a cork it’s likely to be more evolved and the chance for defects increases.
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