Trinity HIll prefers to lead rather than follow. Manager/winemaker John Hancock has a history of testing the boundaries in his 35 years involvement with wine. Trinity HIll pioneered Tempranillo and Touriga Nacional in this country and was one of the first producers to grow Arneis, Montepulciano, Roussanne and Marsanne.

Hancock celebrated the release of the 2007 vintage of Montepulciano with a vertical tasting of seven vintages at a lunch featuring Spanish dishes and a presentation of Flamenco dancing by one of Spain’s top groups of dancers and musicians. Lead dancer, ex-patriot Kiwi Francine Sweet, gave a brilliant and stirring presentation.

Here’s a picture of Hancock (who has become an overnight enthusiast of Flamenco dancing) and Francine (past student of my wine diploma course).

John Hancock (right) cuddling up to Flamenco dancer Francine Sweet

Here are my brief tasting notes for the seven vintages of Trinity HIll Tempranillo with scores (earlier ratings in brackets).

2002 77 – Savoury, earthy wine with hints of fruit but drying out and now well past its best. Historically interesting.

2003 80 (93) – Tannic and drying out. Earthy, savoury wine that’s also past its best (although other bottles were apparantly better than mine). Vestiges of fruit and spice provide character and a hint of what the wine once was.

2004 90 (83) – My first impression was not favourable but as the wine sat in the glass it displayed an attractive floral and spice character that won me over. Still has some fruit sweetness and length. A delicate, pretty wine – this is what I chose to drink with lunch.

2005 88 (93) – Might have had a rush of blood to the head when I tasted this wine two years ago. Alternatively I may have been a bit tough two days ago. It’s a dense and fairly tannic wine with savoury, earthy bitter chocolate characters. I like the wine’s rich texture a lot. Needs food and will develop well.

2006 93 – Delicious, accessible wine that is easy to love. Plenty of fruit sweetness (assisted by 7% Malbec and 3% Syrah in the blend) with spice, floral/violet, plum and berry characters all supported by manly tannins. Good length.

2007 90 (88) – Attractive mixed spice (or “Asian spices” as Parker jnr says) with appealing savoury complexity. Classically varietal although I’d like to see more floral characters. Dense and powerful red.

2008 94 – (barrel sample) Plump, rich and fruity wine with plum, spice floral and classy oak flavours. Very intense and powerful Tempranillo – Trinity’s best yet. Blend includes Touriga 10%, Malbec 2%, Viognier 1% – the Viognier is co-fermented.